After experimenting and a bit of ingredient research, I thought it would only be logical and fun to close the anthocyanin series with an experimental formula.

 

 

 

Formula

Phase A

  • 32,90% Lavender hydrosol infused with blue pea flowers
  • 0,5% aloe vera powder (200X)
  • 0,1% dermofeel PA

Phase B

  • 50% Lubrajel Natural – INCI : Glycerin and Beta-Glucan and Algin and Xanthan Gum.

Phase C

  • 1% Panthenol
  • 2% sodium lactate
  • 5% vegeluron
  • 2,5% cactus extract
  • 2,5% licorice extract

Phase D

  • 3,5% dermosoft 1388 eco

 

Procedure

  1. Weigh the hydrosol and infuse it with 2 flowers for 30 minutes at room temperature.
  2. Filter the infusion and disperse the aloe vera powder. Stir until it is dissolved.
  3. Weigh the lubrajel in a beaker and pour the infused hydrosol little by little. Stir between each addition of hydrosol and the blend will soon become smooth.
  4. Add the other ingredients.
  5. Check and adjust pH according to the preservative. In this case pH was 4,5. I used a 10% bicarbonate:distilled water solution to increase it to 5 which is the recommended pH for dermosoft 1388 eco.
  6. Add the preservative.
  7. Check pH again.

 

 

Notes

The mask is a combination of humectant and soothing ingredients with a pinch of antioxydants. I used it after 2 hours in the sun and my skin literally drank it. The gel is smooth and not sticky and I like that it doesn’t feel tight despite the xanthan gum. I rinsed the residue after a 5 minutes application as it was already absorbed. My skin was obviously hydrated and soothed but the formula needs to be modified to get an application time best fitted for a mask. It would be fine as such for a quick fix though. As a side note, lubrajel is a blend that can be considered as a gel base which is kind of ‘cheating’ when your purpose is to formulate from scratch but could be useful for DIY formulas.

This formula has not been designed nor tested to be a DIY recipe though. Ingredients, dosages and combinations  have been researched, the product itself has been used on myself but again, it has not been designed nor tested to serve as a DIY recipe. Its purpose is only to show in context ingredients that have been researched and experimented in previous posts. As such, it is only the starting point of many other improving formulas.

However, it could be customized with other water soluble extracts or even without adding any extract for a simple formula. I want to stress how much adding a preservative is important because this mask is composed exclusively with hydrophilic ingredients + an infusion and is therefore very sensible to contamination. I use dermosoft 1388 eco which is a preservative that I like to use for water-only formulas  and dermofeel PA which is a chelating agent that will boost the preservative. Both are natural and come from a trusted supplier and they are the best option, in my opinion. Failing that, Preservative eco or Cosgard could  be used instead at 1% and I recommend to prepare small quantities.


Further reading

How to make a hydrogel mask, Swettis Beauty Blog

0 Like

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *